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Hilda McQuesten's Tomato Soup

The Household Treasury: Cooking at the McQuesten Home
From the team at Whitehern Historic House & Garden.
As food prices continue to climb, eating out at restaurants or having a catered meal is not an everyday occasion for most of us here in Hamilton. For years, this was no different for the McQuesten family, the former residents of Whitehern Historic House and Garden, and a prominent family involved in politics and in creating Hamilton’s original iron industry. One of Hilda McQuesten’s favourite recipes was for tomato soup and it might surprise you to see how recognizable this soup is today!
A sepia-tones black and white photo of a man wearing lawyers robes over a 3 piece suit. He is leaning on a n ornat piece of furniture which is draped by a curtain. It is in a photography studio.
Isaac McQuesten is pictured here in his lawyer robes. City of Hamilton.

Whitehern's Kitchen

Walking by Whitehern on your way to the Central Branch of Hamilton Public Library, City Hall, or the TD Coliseum, you might notice how extravagant the house itself is. While this is true, Isaac McQuesten made some poor business decisions prior to his death ruined the family’s finances. This meant the family could not afford to employ any kitchen staff at Whitehern for decades. During this time, the McQuestens cooked for themselves with affordable ingredients that were available locally. First using the original basement kitchen, then moving upstairs to the modern kitchen installed in the 1930s, they cooked and ate a variety of soups, breads, meats, side dishes, and sweets – even brains!

Hilda's Book

For Christmas in 1915, Hilda-Belle McQuesten’s mother gifted her a book titled The Manuscript Receipt Book and Household Treasury. With lots of empty space for recipes inside it, Hilda began recording plenty of dishes she likely made for the family – either alone, or with her sister Mary. They liked to cook together, but they were best suited to cooking for just the family: their mother once wrote in a letter that they weren’t very good at cooking for large groups of friends or visitors to Whitehern! Hilda wrote down recipes for meats, salad dressings, breakfast items, and more. The most packed parts of the cookbook suggest that her favourite things to make may have been different kinds of pickles and desserts.

Hilda and the others ate home-cooked food, rather than relying on restaurants or staff, for many of the same reasons we cook for ourselves today. When Isaac (Hilda’s father) passed away while in debt, the family’s money became tight. Hilda and the others relied on locally-available food, sometimes grown on-site, and used their own techniques and knowledge to prepare it.
A black and white photo of a woman in the early 1900s. She has her hair up in a loose bun and is wearing a frilly white dress.
Hilda-Belle McQuesten was the lead cook for the family for decades. City of Hamilton.
Whitehern Historic House & Garden, when it was the McQuesten family home. City of Hamilton.
A scan of a hand written recipe for tomato soup
A scan of Hilda-Belle's writing in her copy of  The Manuscript Receipt Book and Household Treasury, a notebook to record recipes in. City of Hamilton, 974.B.54.i3.1278 (8).

Cooking Then and Cooking Now

While modern grocery stores offer us a wider variety of foods to choose from on a regular basis in 2026, it’s still a great idea to become comfortable with cooking at home to save money for your and your family’s other expenses. On a visit to Whitehern, you will be able to see the family’s dining room, their “modern” kitchen built in the 1930s, and all sorts of artifacts the McQuestens used to cook or to eat – such as the family’s monogrammed China, their silver tea set, their dumbwaiter, or an early electric toaster.

The basement service kitchen, used for about 100 years, was replaced with a lounge around 1937. While visiting the original kitchen is no longer possible, its recipes survive, and you can bring some of McQuestens’ history into your own kitchen! Below is Hilda’s “Campbell’s Tomato Soup,” which she learned from her friend Mrs. Turnbull. First, find her original recipe below for a bulk batch. Following that, we’ve created a modernized version for a smaller quantity. Hilda’s recipe contains some interesting ingredients not often seen in a modern Canadian tomato soup. Try interpreting Hilda’s recipe with a friend and see if you can make the same final product. What is different from a tomato soup you’d normally make?

Keep in touch with our newsletter for more historic recipes from the McQuesten kitchen and beyond.

Original Recipe: 
"Campbells Tomato Soup - Mrs Turnbulls."

1 peck tomatoes, 1 dozen small onions

1 head celery, 1 bay leaf, 1 bunch parsley

6 cloves – simmer 1 hour and strain
Add – 1 cup granulated sugar, ¼ cup each –

½ cup flour scant ½ teaspoon cayenne or

1 red pepper mixed with cold water

When using add a little butter and soda

when hot – add hot milk

About ¼ teaspoon soda to 1 pt. liquid tomato. 1 qt. milk

 

 

 

Our Interpretation:
Hilda-Belle McQuesten and Mrs. Turnbull's Tomato Soup

Ingredients 

  • 4 lbs of tomatoes
  • 4 small onions
  • 3 stalks of celery
  • 1 small bay leaf
  • ½ cup chopped parsley
  • Water
  • 2 cloves
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 2 tbsp flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper
  • 2 tbsp butter
  • ¼ tsp baking soda
  • Cooking oil

Method 

  1. Finely chop tomatoes, celery and onions. Add to a large pot with oil and sauté until both are soft.
  2. Add parsley, bay leaf, and cloves. Stir and let sit for 60 seconds.
  3. Add enough water to cover everything in the pot, plus 1 cm. Let simmer on low and strain the pot after 60 minutes.
  4. In a separate pan, add the butter and let it melt. Once completely melted, add flour and mix very well. Cook until bubbly and foamy around the edges, then add mixture to hot soup. Stir very well until completely dissolved.
  5. Add sugar and cayenne. Mix well.
  6. Bring to boil, and add hot milk. Mix well and serve hot.

Enjoy!

Sources

McQuesten, Hilda-Belle, and Mary Baker McQuesten. The Manuscript Receipt Book and Household Treasury. Montreal: W.V. Dawson, 1905. City of Hamilton, 974.B.54.i3.1278 (8)

McQuesten, Mary Baker, and Mary J. Anderson. The Life Writings of Mary Baker McQuesten: Victorian Matriarch. Waterloo, ON: Wilfrid Laurier University Press, 2004.

McQuesten, Thomas Baker. “W98611.” Whitehern.ca via The Internet Archive. Written April 8, 1938. https://web.archive.org/web/20230429022809/http://www.whitehern.ca/result.php?doc_id=W9861l.

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